Casey Cadwallader took the lead at Mugler with the French house’s Fall 2018 presentation, but it wasn’t until its Spring 2020 collection that the American designer’s sartorial point of view resonated with fans of the brand in a strong way. With top industry figures such as Bella Hadid often at the center of his showcases, Cadwallader’s Mugler has become something of a cool-girl synonym, ushering in other It-girls such as Megan Thee Stallion, Dua Lipa, and Kylie Jenner as muses. There are likely a complicated number of reasons the brand pivoted to lookbooks and hadn’t shown on the runway after the Spring 2021 season until now (the pandemic was heightened at the time, alongside the passing of founder Thierry Mugler’s January 2022 passing), but its return to the catwalk is one fashion devotees had been eagerly awaiting. Ever one for a showdown, Cadwallader elected to unveil Mugler’s latest collection at the prestigious cultural complex, La Villette, at the tail-end of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
While Cadwallader has spoken about being hesitant about returning to the runway in recent seasons, the designer did produce a trilogy of short films (read: virtual shows) produced during the pandemic. The pumped up productions each delivered a new collection from the brand by way of elaborate special effects and celeb-filled cameos. After such experimentation, Cadwallader says he knew his comeback to the runway couldn’t be commenced with traditional formatting. and decided to collide rolling film alongside the catwalk. As a result, models showcased the brand’s Fall 2023 collection perched atop a moving camera stand, and it was a format that allowed models to experiment with artistry and variation. Sure not to steer too far from tradition, the moving platform was demonstrated alongside a staired runway.
A masterful display of signature Mugler codes, the collection balances leather detailing, architectural shapes, and lace trimming as its biggest themes. Then, there were lace-wrapped sleeves and tights complemented with form-fitting corsetry and layered négligée — looks that were both parts gothic and discomposingly feminine. Accented futuristic cuts on broad-shouldered biker jackets, billowing leather chaps, and zipper-lined gloves all offered a bit of dimension over the more delicate fabrications. One of the most notable touches to the 36-look collection — the introduction of the house’s inaugural handbag, the Spiral Curve 01.
While there was only one plus-sized model on the runway, Thursday’s show otherwise boasted the diversity that has become synonymous with Mugler since Thierry Mugler’s early tenure. This time, American comedian, Ziwe, made her modeling debut (the model donned a lacy black ensemble, a coordinating gloved bolero, a denim mini skirt, and knee-high leather boots). The lineup also included the likes of Dominique Jackson, boundary-pushing musician Arca, Paloma Elsesser, and runway royalty, Amber Valletta, Eva Herzigova, and Debra Shaw.
Since its inception, Thierry Mugler’s runway shows have remained spectacular to be seen, the late designer always having had a masterful understanding of theatrical production. With many of his latest presentations, but notably this one, it’s these integral values of the brand that Cadwallader continues to uphold.
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