For men’s Paris Fashion Week this season, minimalism and understated chicness rang supreme in one of the most popular menswear seasons of the last few years. In the wake of Virgil’s death, there was also a palpable shift away from the streetwear aesthetic the late designer revolutionized on the luxury runway. Its absence is noticeable not only from Louis Vuitton, but other brands that had picked up the style as well. What came this season was an emphasis on longevity and a particular sartorial maturity often previously accredited to older, stately gentlemen, now repackaged for the youthful gaze as well. All the while, a number of the presentations zeroed in on balancing structure with delicacy as well, each taking its own approach to marrying the traditional gender codes.
Since the pandemic, the aesthetics of consumption continue to change rapidly, with fashion debates fluctuating between designer sweatpants, statement ensembles for men, and the reexamination of long-term investment pieces for the average consumer. Now redefined, the suit no longer solely belongs to the autocratic uniform of corporate men. In turn, the tailored doors have been burst wide open to appreciate and transform the notion of stylistic durability across gender and identity.
Ahead, here’s a look at six stand out shows of the season.
Louis Vuitton
While the late Virgil’s post at the head of Louis Vuitton has remained noticeably unfilled since the multihyphenate’s passing, this season, the house tapped New-York based designer and 2021 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize Winner, Colme Dillane of KidSuper, pto guest design its fall collection. With no hint as to whether or not a more permanent post is to come, the guest collaboration brought in a certain hype absent for the brand in the most recent seasons without a strong, decisive voice at its head. The collection itself melded the stylistic ideas of Ib Kamara and Dillane, offering up oversized suits and abstract facial prints, a design element that has been integral to KidSuper since the Spring 2022.
Sacai
Collaborations on the runway show no signs of slowing down, with Sacai next on the list. Creative Director Chitose Abe debuted two new collections — one alongside Carhartt and the other, Nike — inspired by the space classic Interstellar. The Pre-Fall and Fall mashup runway show presented collections that offer a steady continuation of the house’s codes, with accessible and aspirational pieces to look forward to in the future drop space.
Casablanca
Much to fans’ delight, Casablanca’s Fall 2023 collection stays true to the aesthetics that have come to be loved in recent seasons. It does, however, flirt with touches of a more subdued color palette, ideal to appease the general conservatism of the fall season. It’s this use of more tonal styling, combined with the likes of chunky-knits and v-neck sweaters, that have shifted historically streetwear- leaning brands such as Casablanca towards a new version of pseudo-prep this season. Additionally, the co-ed catwalk saw a reinvention of the tennis fit — no longer exclusively meant for the ladies who lunch, but rather, the style icons who experience life fully.
Amiri
Among the brand’s taking a pared back approach to its designs this year is Amiri. The Los Angeles-based brand traded in its signature bedazzled denim for a wider portfolio of designs on the runway this season. Prints were balanced with tailored blazers, and the collection’s wearability shone through cardigans, and patchwork matching sets.
Dior
Unexpectedly, the decline of the logomania trend also brought on a shift at Kim Jones’ Dior. The Creative Director’s tenure at the helm of the brand’s menswear sector has been marked by one luxury collaboration after another (Converse, Nike, and more), heavily centered on the licensed use of the revamped vintage Dior logo. This runway season, such elements were absent, and the collection showcased instead a hybrid between Jones’ classic gorp-core interpretations and the modern relaxed suit. While other menswear collections this season were stamped by statement outerwear, Dior’s Fall 2023 lineup boasted subdued rain gear that put the fineness of Jones’ tailored knits on display.
Marine Serre
Marine Serre’s show opened with a poem written by the designer behind the brand herself, stating, “Nothing is created. Everything is transformed. To love is to repair.” The message is simple, and rooted in sustainability — Each garment from the season’s collection was made entirely from deadstock warehouse materials, and the show’s set was created similarly. The designer, known for her climate activism, combined material waste with silhouettes fans of the brand have come to recognize. At its core, the collection cycles through a series of stylistic options that exist within the Marine Serre’s identity, from denim, to motorcycle gear, formalwear, and the iconic head to toe moon-print bodysuits.
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