Category: Uncategorized

For men’s Paris Fashion Week this season, minimalism and understated chicness rang supreme in one of the most popular menswear seasons of the last few years. In the wake of Virgil’s death, there was also a palpable shift away from the streetwear aesthetic the late designer revolutionized on the luxury runway. Its absence is noticeable not only from Louis Vuitton, but other brands that had picked up the style as well. What came this season was an emphasis on longevity and a particular sartorial maturity often previously accredited to older, stately gentlemen, now repackaged for the youthful gaze as well. All the while, a number of the presentations zeroed in on balancing structure with delicacy as well, each taking its own approach to marrying the traditional gender codes.

Since the pandemic, the aesthetics of consumption continue to change rapidly, with fashion debates fluctuating between designer sweatpants, statement ensembles for men, and the reexamination of long-term investment pieces for the average consumer. Now redefined, the suit no longer solely belongs to the autocratic uniform of corporate men. In turn, the tailored doors have been burst wide open to appreciate and transform the notion of stylistic durability across gender and identity.

Ahead, here’s a look at six stand out shows of the season.

Louis Vuitton

While the late Virgil’s post at the head of Louis Vuitton has remained noticeably unfilled since the multihyphenate’s passing, this season, the house tapped New-York based designer and 2021 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize Winner, Colme Dillane of KidSuper, pto guest design its fall collection. With no hint as to whether or not a more permanent post is to come, the guest collaboration brought in a certain hype absent for the brand in the most recent seasons without a strong, decisive voice at its head. The collection itself melded the stylistic ideas of Ib Kamara and Dillane, offering up oversized suits and abstract facial prints, a design element that has been integral to KidSuper since the Spring 2022.

Sacai

Collaborations on the runway show no signs of slowing down, with Sacai next on the list. Creative Director Chitose Abe debuted two new collections — one alongside Carhartt and the other, Nike — inspired by the space classic Interstellar. The Pre-Fall and Fall mashup runway show presented collections that offer a steady continuation of the house’s codes, with accessible and aspirational pieces to look forward to in the future drop space.

Casablanca

Much to fans’ delight, Casablanca’s Fall 2023 collection stays true to the aesthetics that have come to be loved in recent seasons. It does, however, flirt with touches of a more subdued color palette, ideal to appease the general conservatism of the fall season. It’s this use of more tonal styling, combined with the likes of chunky-knits and v-neck sweaters, that have shifted historically streetwear- leaning brands such as Casablanca towards a new version of pseudo-prep this season. Additionally, the co-ed catwalk saw a reinvention of the tennis fit — no longer exclusively meant for the ladies who lunch, but rather, the style icons who experience life fully.

Amiri

Among the brand’s taking a pared back approach to its designs this year is Amiri. The Los Angeles-based brand traded in its signature bedazzled denim for a wider portfolio of designs on the runway this season. Prints were balanced with tailored blazers, and the collection’s wearability shone through cardigans, and patchwork matching sets.

Dior

Unexpectedly, the decline of the logomania trend also brought on a shift at Kim Jones’ Dior. The Creative Director’s tenure at the helm of the brand’s menswear sector has been marked by one luxury collaboration after another (Converse, Nike, and more), heavily centered on the licensed use of the revamped vintage Dior logo. This runway season, such elements were absent, and the collection showcased instead a hybrid between Jones’ classic gorp-core interpretations and the modern relaxed suit. While other menswear collections this season were stamped by statement outerwear, Dior’s Fall 2023 lineup boasted subdued rain gear that put the fineness of Jones’ tailored knits on display.

Marine Serre

Marine Serre’s show opened with a poem written by the designer behind the brand herself, stating, “Nothing is created. Everything is transformed. To love is to repair.” The message is simple, and rooted in sustainability — Each garment from the season’s collection was made entirely from deadstock warehouse materials, and the show’s set was created similarly. The designer, known for her climate activism, combined material waste with silhouettes fans of the brand have come to recognize. At its core, the collection cycles through a series of stylistic options that exist within the Marine Serre’s identity, from denim, to motorcycle gear, formalwear, and the iconic head to toe moon-print bodysuits.

Minimalism has dominated the first round of Fall 2023 collections to hit the runway this season, but JW Anderson’s Loewe continues to play with the industry’s popular musings, in this case, pared-down fashion, while remaining true to his playful habits when it comes to subtle innovations. The opening look of the Spanish house’s latest menswear collection, which debuted Saturday, is a clear nod to the “less is more” mentality, but not without Anderson’s specific idea of modernity throughout – In his own words, “tradition made unorthodox.” In line with Anderson’s knack for off-kilter stylistic choices on the runway, the model’s exposed hand peeking out of the low-cut neckline of a collared tunic echoes the same comfort of placing our hands to rest in a hoodie’s pocket, but encourages our minds to examine and compare exactly why it’s so different. Anderson’s modernity is one that’s based in familiarity, but provides a new answer to the equally modern question of how to produce critical clothing in an era of fashion marked by performance gimmicks that merely distract and cover the lack of true craftsmanship.

While each of the collection’s 48 looks remain conceptually minimalist, the silhouettes and accessories are larger than life. There were gigantic bags with enough real estate to charge rent, and alongside them, angel wings upon the backs of simpler looks that were elegant enough to transcend the fickleness of today’s internet-driven trends. The overall feel of the collection emphasizes pared down dressing by way of joggers and briefs, and highlights the thoughtful craftsmanship of both the simpler and more intellectually complex pieces. Inspired by the American artist, Julien Nguyen, who in turn references early Renaissance paintings and science fiction in his own work, the use of materials such as copper, parchment, leather, and wool in this collection emulate much of Nguyen’s use of traditional media materials on copper and vellum bases (and as it would have it, the runway set showcased three large-scale pieces of Nguyen’s artwork).

The true standout of Anderon’s reductive aestheticism for fall, already heralded for its brilliant outwear, were the succession of staple, but statement jackets that floated down the all-white runway. The rigid, 3D nature of the architectural outwear pieces ground the collection’s materialism against the fantasy of the otherwise bare models carrying the sculptures underneath; Bulbous, oversized, plant-like fur coats created have already been dubbed the fur coat of the season; Meanwhile, the dramatic bell-curves of the sleeves and waistline reshaped the lines of the body that the eye may follow, playing a subtle trick of minimalist reinvention.

Metal jackets perfectly molded to emulate the look of fabric in motion were undoubtedly among the most striking touches of the collection. Crafted in collaboration with metal artist Elie Hirsch, the pieces were meant to play with the eye’s perception of light and shadow. Though, upon first glance, the patina-ladened jackets bring a simple pleasure to the eye, the knowledge of the craftsmanship behind them lends an intellectual spark to its creation. This refraction of knowledge is what creates the fascinating tension in Anderson’s new era of modern design at Loewe, demonstrating how the designer can so strongly lean into fashion’s return to all things minimal while retaining the house’s integral codes, and his own sartorial joyfulness.

Beyond the Pines: What work or pleasure projects are you working on right now that you’re excited about?

Sumire: Right now I’m focusing on my baby boy but I am working on a mental health project with some girlfriends trying to bring more awareness in Japan. I’m also auditioning for some cool projects in the U.S. as well.

Beyond the Pines: What’s been your proudest achievement thus far?

Sumire: My proudest moment was probably doing my film “The Shack” in America. And of course, giving birth to my beautiful baby boy last year!

Beyond the Pines: Who have been the greatest teachers in your life?

Sumire: I’ve had some amazing teachers in my life, in school, outside of school, but I have to say that my mom was the greatest teacher I’ve had ever. She taught me all I know, to be gracious and respect others, and to truly trust myself.

Beyond the Pines: What have your life lessons taught you?

Sumire: My life lessons have taught me to take everything with a grain of salt, and to not take everything so seriously all the time. They also taught me that everything happens for a reason and so I try to trust that whatever happens I will be okay and get through anything that comes my way.

Beyond the Pines: We appreciate the work you’ve done on addressing mental health. When you’re experiencing the ups and downs, do you have any advice for our readers on dealing with the downs and how to get back up again?

Sumire: When I’m feeling down, I just try to meditate and work out or take care of myself by taking a nice long bath or getting a massage. If it’s really bad I call family and friends and try to get together with people because not feeling alone is really nice during tough times. I also like to eat yummy foods that I love, and go to karaoke and sing my heart out!

Beyond the Pines: Any additional bit of Sumire you’d like to share with the world more.

Sumire: I’m just your average Japanese American gal living in Tokyo, but I really hope that once I make it big, that I can change the world. Even if it’s by saving one life, I would give anything to do that. God bless!

The 8 piece collection is avaiable for puchasw online at Gucci’s Vault.

The Vault is an experimental concept space by Gucci where past, present and future co-exist through the power of the imagination…Its ever-changing offering includes a careful curation of rare vintage Gucci pieces alongside exclusive capsule collections, limited-edition styles and other items from a selection of brands. And as it expands in all directions to push beyond the traditional and the purely transactional, Vault also acts as an emissary of Gucci’s presence within the metaverse, evolving by creating with the community. Web3-based initiatives including NFTs join the platform’s virtual shelves as objects from different eras with diverse origins allow ideas to hybridize and create those perfect conditions to spark new creativity for the future.

Source: Vault

Isabella Kroon featured here in our MUSE hoodie purchase your MEMBERS ONLY hoodie today while supplies last!

Take advantage of our Holiday sale and save 25% on subscriptions, merchandise, and Vol. 1 print with the code: HOLIDAYS2022

As a subscriber, you’ll experience our members-only community like never before. You’ll get insider access to Beyond the Pines photo editorials, videos, behind-the-scenes, muse interviews, exclusive promos, and more.

Become a Member

PROMO CODE: HOLIDAYS2022

Exclusive members-only benefit. ‘Tis the season for our best deal ever, subscribers take 50% off sitewide! Don’t miss this very limited-time offer and save on hoodies, rugs, beanies, decks, and Vol.1 print magazine with code: CYBERMONDAY50

Shop Now and save 50%

Video source: Louis Vuitton

Video source: Dior

After PET bottle caps are recycled, cleaned, and sorted they are ground into fine bits. The bits are thrown in hot air to give them a hard layer and then dried to remove any lingering moisture. The dried, hard bits, are sent through scorching pipes to melt them into a rich liquid. That liquid gets filtered through a plate with micro-holes. As the liquid polyester runs through the micro-holes it forms ultra-fine filaments. The filaments are then sent over rollers where air intertwines the filaments to create a yarn that is ready to be spun and woven into our super-soft 100% recycled beanies. Shop now while supplies last. ♻️🌻