Minimalism has dominated the first round of Fall 2023 collections to hit the runway this season, but JW Anderson’s Loewe continues to play with the industry’s popular musings, in this case, pared-down fashion, while remaining true to his playful habits when it comes to subtle innovations. The opening look of the Spanish house’s latest menswear collection, which debuted Saturday, is a clear nod to the “less is more” mentality, but not without Anderson’s specific idea of modernity throughout – In his own words, “tradition made unorthodox.” In line with Anderson’s knack for off-kilter stylistic choices on the runway, the model’s exposed hand peeking out of the low-cut neckline of a collared tunic echoes the same comfort of placing our hands to rest in a hoodie’s pocket, but encourages our minds to examine and compare exactly why it’s so different. Anderson’s modernity is one that’s based in familiarity, but provides a new answer to the equally modern question of how to produce critical clothing in an era of fashion marked by performance gimmicks that merely distract and cover the lack of true craftsmanship.
While each of the collection’s 48 looks remain conceptually minimalist, the silhouettes and accessories are larger than life. There were gigantic bags with enough real estate to charge rent, and alongside them, angel wings upon the backs of simpler looks that were elegant enough to transcend the fickleness of today’s internet-driven trends. The overall feel of the collection emphasizes pared down dressing by way of joggers and briefs, and highlights the thoughtful craftsmanship of both the simpler and more intellectually complex pieces. Inspired by the American artist, Julien Nguyen, who in turn references early Renaissance paintings and science fiction in his own work, the use of materials such as copper, parchment, leather, and wool in this collection emulate much of Nguyen’s use of traditional media materials on copper and vellum bases (and as it would have it, the runway set showcased three large-scale pieces of Nguyen’s artwork).
The true standout of Anderon’s reductive aestheticism for fall, already heralded for its brilliant outwear, were the succession of staple, but statement jackets that floated down the all-white runway. The rigid, 3D nature of the architectural outwear pieces ground the collection’s materialism against the fantasy of the otherwise bare models carrying the sculptures underneath; Bulbous, oversized, plant-like fur coats created have already been dubbed the fur coat of the season; Meanwhile, the dramatic bell-curves of the sleeves and waistline reshaped the lines of the body that the eye may follow, playing a subtle trick of minimalist reinvention.
Metal jackets perfectly molded to emulate the look of fabric in motion were undoubtedly among the most striking touches of the collection. Crafted in collaboration with metal artist Elie Hirsch, the pieces were meant to play with the eye’s perception of light and shadow. Though, upon first glance, the patina-ladened jackets bring a simple pleasure to the eye, the knowledge of the craftsmanship behind them lends an intellectual spark to its creation. This refraction of knowledge is what creates the fascinating tension in Anderson’s new era of modern design at Loewe, demonstrating how the designer can so strongly lean into fashion’s return to all things minimal while retaining the house’s integral codes, and his own sartorial joyfulness.
