After a week of one satisfying show after another, it can finally be said that New York Fashion Week is back. Many have (perhaps prematurely) branded the last few seasons as the bi-annual event’s big “comeback” (truthfully more aptly attributed to the uptick in in-person shows than heaps of novelty and innovation), but this season brought a particular new strain of chic, American clothing back to the forefront of our minds. Independent, U.S.-based designers such as Wiederhoft and Head of State spearheaded the week while brands such as Heron Preston (though not at all a new kid on the block) put on its first-ever show. Some designers basked in the conceptual, while others signaled a return to a more practical way of dressing ahead. Alongside a few of the industry’s more impressive mainstay designers, it was the emerging brands that wowed enthusiasts most this time around.
Ahead, here’s a look at some of the best collections.
Collina Strada puts a spin on animal chic
This season, New York Fashion Week’s darling child kicked off the shows with an intimate set in the unopened THC Museum in Soho. Quite the trek up five flights of stairs, influencers, press, and celebrities alike (many of whom not equipped with the appropriate footwear) squeezed through to watch Hillary Taymour’s Fall 2023 wild zoo. The clothes were inherently Collina-coded, but lacked a bit of her familiar youth and vibrant energy. Most models sported animal prosthetics, and reptiles, deer, and dogs slithered, skipped, and crawled down the runway (resulting in some of the most social media-circulated imagery of the week). In the midst of a multi-season debate of what constitutes a successful runway “gimmick,” the extraneous animal parts were unfortunately a distraction from the collection, leaving the viewers remembering the performance before the individual garments themselves.
Brunch with Puppets & Puppets
Talk about having your cake (or eggs? and cookies?) and eating it, too. Puppets and Puppets, the funky, New York-based come to popular attention for its 3D cookie handbags, opted to
put on a “brunch”-inspired runway show. Spaghetti, cake, and loose fruit dotted the center of the runway, in line with the collection’s signature food-accessorized pieces. This season beckoned a stand out collection for the emerging brand; its pieces retained their cheeky, food-fueled satire
with fried egg bralettes and banana-handled bags, while balancing impressively wearable pieces that presented a welcomed commercial shift for the brand’s ready-to-wear.
Willy Chavarria leads the reset on menswear
Menswear-focused brand Willy Chavarria has effectively redefined the New York uniform, and it’s not the stiff-suited behavior of the city’s (and Chavarria’s) Ralph-Lauren past. His exaggerated suits feature wide-set lapels and relaxed flowing fabric that move with the body as it power-walks down the street. Having become a designer to watch over the last couple of seasons, Chavarria’s designs draw from his Mexican-American heritage, with stand-out details including oversized accent flowers and delicate skirting that balances out sculptural tops.
Luar takes the closing spot
Fun, refreshing, and powerful, Luar now occupies the closing slot of New York Fashion Week, and, once experienced, it’s easy to see why an invitation to the brand’s show has become so coveted. An audience of friends, family and Luar’s community, attendees couldn’t help but enthuse as they saw their own friends sporting Raul’s newest looks down a mirror and camera-filled runway. Some coats sported the signature Luar chest strap while other suited looks introduced an updated take — a bondage-inspired, full chest strap that also bound the model’s arms to their sides. Juxtaposed against exaggerated, tall shoulders, the latter accurately captured contemporary anxieties while all else invoked the glamor of the fashion fantasy.
Campy bridal and boudoir glam at Wiederhoeft
Once an if-you-know-you-know cult gem, the VIP list for Wiederhoeft’s latest show demonstrated its newfound star power with names such as Jada Essence Hall and Julia Fox among those who sat front row in anticipation for what proved to be a showcase to remember. Set in the St. Patrick’s youth center in Soho, both the audience and cast were made up of Wiederhoeft’s chosen family. The designer, who primarily focuses on bridal designing during the ready-to-wear season, used emotive choreography throughout the show in a way that emphasized the movement of his gowns rather than distracting from them. From afar, the drop beading and screen prints of lingerie and Saint Sebastian were sharp and editorial; up close, and shown under a brilliant spotlight, the quality of construction stood up to par and were some of the strongest points of an impressively original
collection.
Elena Velez challenges femininity
Elena Velez’ Fall 2023 collection succeeds at depicting modern femininity. Part of the designer’s instinctual appeal comes from the clear intention behind her casting, sourcing, and design. Amongst runways that either tokenize inclusivity or ignore it completely, Velez casts openly from the New York City streets. Her pieces are often familiar, but apocalyptic — a glimpse into what may lie ahead for contemporary womanhood. It simultaneously asks the question of whether or not womanhood is already here, echoed by the modernity of oversized, protective outerwear and barely-there, torn dresses.
Head of State — A peep show, a shower, and a powerful cast
New York-based designer Taofeek Abijako of Head of State is best known for his success on the Met Gala red carpet and recent IMDB page, but near the tail end of fashion week, the brand proposed a beautiful take on fall ready-to-wear. The tiered, green gown in look #33, sported by New York model and DJ, Oyinda, was one of the alluring pieces of the collection. Tulle button-downs, corseted suits and skirts on men just scratches the surface of the beautiful brand identity that is ushering in a new definition of American formalwear.
Leave a Reply