Phoebe Philo’s inaugural namesake label, recently launched with LVMH as a minority investor, was nothing short of one of the most anticipated fashion debuts of the 21st century. On October 30th, the brand opened its digital doors with over 150 ready-to-wear and accessories styles. Among the offering — leather jackets with detachable scarves, a chunky, ‘Mum’ necklace, and meticulously hand-combed frayed dresses, skirts, and trench coats. Whispers around the internet suggest that fortune favored some elements of the debut collection, while others faced disappointment, with many items vanishing from shopping carts and into packaging for shipping as quickly as they had entered them. British Vogue Editor Chioma Nnadi proudly shared on Vogue’s “The Run-Through” podcast her acquisition of three coveted pieces from the launch, while writer Laura Riley of Magasin described “[watching] one page turning inky red after the other,” — the site’s visual indicator of a sold-out product — “until virtually everything under five grand was gone.”
The launch comes six years after Philo’s departure from the Parisian fashion label Celine, where the designer garnered a cult following endearingly dubbed “Philophiles,” surely not one of them not anxiously awaiting the label since the brand’s initial “Coming soon” announcement in 2021 (just before virtually going silent). As anticipated, Philo delivered an abundance of what is now famously called “quiet luxury.” Yet, the genesis of the fervent fan cult surrounding the designer, as “of the moment” as her aesthetic may seem, can be traced back to her transformative decade at Celine, where she redefined the paradigm of women dressing for themselves, merging minimalism and chicness seamlessly.
The debut of the “furkenstock,” which Philo sent down the Celine runway for Spring/Summer 2013, offers an illustrative example of this fusion. The design married the classic Birkenstock with fur lining and leather straps, a seemingly unconventional combination, but one that, in true Philo nature, effortlessly blurred the lines between comfort and chic luxury. Similarly, a transformative journey came after the designer showcased Celine’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection. It was celebrated for its clean lines, understated elegance, and focus on functionality, embracing simplicity, emphasizing quality and comfort rather than conspicuity (an underlying philosophy that remains present in Philo’s work today). The groundbreaking collection set forward a phenomenon known as “The Celine Effect,” influencing designers throughout the 2010s to prioritize streamlined construction and simplicity.
Then and now, Philo’s designs are about honing in on tailoring to elevate women’s individuality and empower them, rather than conforming to societal expectations and the male gaze. Dedicated Philophiles love her because rather than presenting an unattainable dream fantasy, she meets the real demands and needs of women. Her mission is to offer clothing that not only mirrors consumer’s distinct personalities, but also caters to their comfort and practicality.
It’d be remiss, however, not to acknowledge the controversy that surrounds Philo’s comeback nearly as closely as the praise. Looking back on the lack of diversity in the models cast during the designer’s tenure at Celine has elicited mixed reactions, especially when the former is considered in juxtaposition to the imagery at her now-eponymous label (which features models of color throughout), raising questions about the authenticity of the shift and whether it signals a genuine commitment to diversity, or is merely a pacifying response to criticism to which the designer has never otherwise addressed. Other conversations around the debut collection center on discontent around the brand’s exorbitantly high (but surely not at all unexpectedly so) prices, the new website touting everything from $1,100 leggings to $800 sunglasses and a $7,000 leather jacket.
Still, with not a peep from Philo herself — no interviews, and not so much as a company Instagram post — fervent Philophiles dubiously and nearly cleared out the brand’s first collection. With still much to question as to what’s to come, what is undisputed is the undeniable idolization fans have for Philo’s work, all these years later.
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