Concluding 2024, we experienced another whirlwind of fashion’s game of musical chairs – when creative directors are rotated around various fashion companies – at legacy houses such as Maison Margiela, Bottega Veneta, Helmut Lang, and Chanel. While we anticipate new interpretations and debut collections, the fashion cycle continues as Men’s Fashion Week kicks off the Fall/Winter 2025 season in Milan and Paris.
As menswear continues to evolve, there are core elements that remain foundational. We can always expect to see refined tailoring and new innovations centered around suiting. Legacy houses and new designers distinguish their brands with different cuts, silhouettes, seams, yokes, pleats, and fabrics. There’s a lot that can be said about a man based on the type of suit he wears.
Beyond tailoring and eveningwear, the latest runway collections showcase takes on casual attire and streetwear for men. At a glance, it appears that androgyny is gradually phasing out of new collections. However, there are still feminine touches worked into the cuts of necklines, fabric choices, and color palettes that bring a great balance to forming a fashion-forward man. Regarding textiles, the most consistently spotted materials across all collections, unsurprisingly for fall/winter, were fur, suede, and leather.
Ahead, we dive deeper into a number of our favorite menswear collections from this season.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell adds another collection under his belt as the Creative Director of Menswear at Louis Vuitton. This time, he draws inspiration from his longtime collaboration with Nigo, the creator of Bape and Artistic Director at Kenzo. Within the collection, key elements honor their shared roots in streetwear, such as reinterpreting the iconic Bathing Ape pattern and showcasing their love for color, highlighted by pink as a primary hue in several silhouettes and the historical Damier print. In addition to refreshing takes on suiting, there was also a prominent presence of workwear as a nod to Nigo. Accessories were clearly not an afterthought, staying true to the house’s legacy of specializing in leather goods. Standouts included speedy bags in new colors, a sculptural lobster-shaped bag, and a campy take on a Louis Vuitton shopping bag.
Prada
Fashion often mirrors the state of the world, and this collection seems to reflect Raf Simons’ and Miuccia Prada’s depiction of it. There’s a sense of curated chaos through various patterns and color pairings, paired with a conservative approach to men’s silhouettes. Nonetheless, the innovative spirit was present as models wore necklaces and earrings shaped like basketballs and baseballs. The Prada man walked the runway in cowboy attire, silk pajamas, traditional suiting, and outerwear, all styled with slim-fitted pants over wider cowboy-like boots inspired by Raf’s archives. Fur trims and vests added a sensual, armor-like quality. Even through the chaos, the collection reads cohesive and exudes an acquired taste.
Dolce & Gabbana
The Italian luxury house leaned into its signature glitz and glamour, naming the collection “Paparazzi” as a nod to its celebrity clientele and timeless stylistic language. Luxurious knits and outerwear were paired with slouchy trousers and slightly wrinkled denim for an effortless look. Tank tops styled with signature caps and unconventional belt placements added a distinct character. Eveningwear consisted of black suits, trousers, and vests designed in silk and satin, accessorized with eye-catching brooches and necklaces—a modern choice that remains timeless.
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner always interweaves a romantic dance with design while honoring Black culture. This collection highlighted Black women shaping global culture through a collaboration with Chicago-based artist Theaster Gates. Images from Ebony and Jet magazine archives were printed on denim jacquard and a cobalt blue buttoned shirt, exuding Black excellence. The collection also featured reinterpreted fireman’s jackets, artisanal knitwear, and chic footwear. Bonner continued her collaboration with Adidas Originals, introducing new sportswear and a leather track jacket stamped with signature logos. The collection’s effortlessness and elegance were undeniable.
Willy Chavarria
Fresh off his second CFDA American Menswear Designer of the Year win, Willy Chavarria made his Paris Fashion Week debut with Tarantula. Staged at The American Cathedral in Paris, the collection opened with oversized suits and exaggerated collared shirts, followed by reimagined workwear and crushed velour. Chavarria also unveiled a new Adidas capsule featuring bomber jackets, tracksuits, and satin shorts. Closing the show wearing a shirt that read, “How we love is who we are,” Chavarria reaffirmed his commitment to empowering minority communities.
Dior
Kim Jones leaned into subdued luxury with his new men’s collection. Satin blindfolds, muted Dior tones, and coats styled backward created a balance between masculinity and femininity. Luxurious textiles like satin and leather were emphasized through understated designs. Collared shirts, opera coats, and footwear adorned with satin bows complemented asymmetrical hemlines on knits and leather sweaters. This collection epitomized quiet luxury.
Amiri
Mike Amiri brought Hollywood to Paris with Club Amiri. The runway, reminiscent of members’ clubs, focused on exotic leather trenches and statement dinner coats. Sparkling textiles, embroidered jackets, and rose-decorated suits paid homage to Los Angeles. For those seeking a red carpet alternative to traditional tuxedos, Amiri’s collection offered relaxed yet striking options.
Acne Studios
Creative director Jonny Johansson explored the modern man’s boundlessness with metrosexual energy. Fitted cropped tops, boxer shorts paired with loafers, and bold outerwear defined the collection. Acne introduced fresh iterations of beloved denim and new leather bags. The FW25 Acne man is bold and self-assured.
David Koma
In his second menswear collection, David Koma elevated loungewear by pairing leather loafers and oversized fur trims with sweatsuits. Shrunken polos and sleeveless knits maintained a sophisticated presence, while stadium scarves were reinterpreted as eveningwear accessories. The Koma man is effortless, sophisticated, and intriguing.
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