PHOTO CREDIT: Mat Abad / Beyond The Pines
Thug Club, South Korea’s hottest counter-culture fashion label, first captured global awe in 2021 with their viral “SUCK MY DICK” boxers. The brand name catapulted into the fashionverse thanks to the provocative now-brand signature, leading to highly-coveted collaborations with household names like Gentle Monster, MCM, and, most recently, Dickies. Known for their rebellious spirit and hip-hop-inspired aesthetic, Thug Club’s edgy designs have attracted a devoted following, including stars like SZA, A$AP Rocky, K-pop girl group ITZY, and 2NE1’s CL wearing the brand’s baroque, road dog-influenced designs. Celebrating the brand’s first anniversary of its first flagship store, located in Seoul, founder Young Min Cho reflects Thug Club’s bold and free-spirited ethos through its music-inspired interior and a community park project.
Speaking with Cho about the company’s creative journey, it’s clear Thug Club is more than a streetwear brand — it’s a movement. With the brand’s new Fall-Winter 2024 collection, titled “Bio Soldier,” Cho doubles down on his subversive taste, merging the raw energy of South Korea’s underground fashion scene with his personal history, which involves South Korea’s historical ties and stitches a collection of resilience and evolution. “Bio Soldier” reimagines everyday essentials, upgrading a quilted puffer jacket with enough ruched details that reinterprets utilitarian outerwear into urban streetwear while subtly incorporating other symbols of readiness and adaptability via heavy-layered, distressed denim and chunky boots. Down to a staple black bomber jacket and fur coat, Cho reinforces that the collection isn’t about external trends but rather a reflection of thoughts long-held and shaped by life under constant transformation.
Ahead, Cho candidly discusses the challenges of creating a collection rooted in both history and modernity, the mishaps that shaped the direction of “Bio Soldier,” and his take on today’s trendless, hyper-diverse landscape. He also offers a glimpse into the hidden details and self-expressive cultural touches embedded within each design, revealing how Thug Club captures his rightful devotees while challenging conventional fashion norms in an age of overabundant information.
BEYOND THE PINES: What was the main source of inspiration for the 2024 Fall/Winter collection, and how did it shape your creative process?
Young Min Cho: 2024 가을/겨울 컬렉션의 주요 영감의 원천은 무엇이며, 그것이 당신의 창작 과정을 어떻게 형성했나요? -우리는 남북전쟁으로인해 예전부터 군사관련과 밀집해있습니다 북한에서 보내오는 공격 그로인해 다가오는 불안감과 따른 준비태세 오래된 휴전상태 등등에서 자연스럽게 솔저라는 테마가 삶에 지내져왔었고 어느정도 느낌만 정해두고 옷을 만들고나서 전체적인 룩을보고 바이오솔저라고 이름을 정했습니다
Young Min Cho (Translated English): We have long been closely associated with military themes due to the Korean War. The attacks from North Korea, the ensuing sense of unease, the state of readiness, and the prolonged armistice have naturally ingrained the ‘soldier’ theme into our lives. After setting a general concept, we created the garments and, upon reviewing the overall look, decided to name it ‘Bio Soldier’.
BTP: Did you draw any ideas from specific moments, art movements, or personal experiences for this collection?
| Cho: 이번 컬렉션에 대한 특정 순간, 미술 운동, 개인적인 경험에서 아이디어를 얻었나요? | 개인적인 경험입니다 |
It stems from personal experiences.
BTP: How did travel or new cultural experiences influence the designs in this collection?
Cho: 여행이나 새로운 문화적 경험이 이번 컬렉션의 디자인에 어떤 영향을 미쳤나요?
-새로운것보단 기존에 삶에서 나온것들 머리에서 생각하던것들이 나온것입니다 오히려 우리가 새로운 영감을 불러일으키기위해 열심히 하고있는것같스빈다
Rather than new experiences, the designs emerged from existing aspects of life and thoughts. It seems we are diligently working to evoke new inspirations.
BTP: Are there any historical references or themes that played a role in shaping the aesthetics or designs for Fall/Winter 2024?
Cho: 2024년 가을/겨울의 미학이나 디자인을 형성하는 데 역할을 한 역사적 참고 자료나 주제가 있나요? -기본적인 의복의 변형과 다양한 세대의 믹스
Basic modifications of clothing and a mix of various generations.
BTP: What challenges or breakthroughs did you encounter while developing this particular collection?
Cho: 이 특별한 컬렉션을 개발하는 동안 어떤 어려움이나 돌파구를 만났나요?많은 생각들과 고통이 같이 있었습니다
There were many thoughts and accompanying pains.
BTP: Can you share any hidden details, symbols, or nods to pop culture or history embedded in the collection’s designs?
Cho: 컬렉션 디자인에 포함된 대중 문화나 역사에 대한 숨겨진 세부 사항, 상징 또는 고개를 끄덕이는 부분을 공유할 수 있습니까? 지금의 세대는 인터넷 정보 과잉으로인해 트렌드라는게 없고 다양성이 많아지고있습니다
앞으로도 그럴것으로보이며 더욱더 각자 좋아하는것에 몰두할것으로 보입니다우리 떠그클럽을 따라오는 친구들에게 감사하며 좋은퀄리티와 특별함을 만들어주기위해 노력할것입니다 감사합니다
The current generation, due to information overload from the internet, lacks a unified trend and is embracing diversity. This is expected to continue, with individuals delving deeper into their personal preferences. We are grateful to those who follow Thug Club and will strive to provide exceptional quality and uniqueness. Thank you.
*Note: This interview has been translated and edited for clarity.
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