The time arrived, yet again, again for the fashion collective to make its trek across Milan and Paris for the reveal of the latest menswear collections, as it does annually a few days out of the month of June, and the week is never without its slew of notable events. On one hand, there were a few first-time debuts (among them, womenswear designer David Koma’s foray into menswear, and A$AP Rocky’s Rihanna-attended show for the first-ever ready-to-wear collection under the rapper’s AWGE) while on the other, there were goodbyes — Notably, a farewell affair as the esteemed Mr. Dries Van Noten looks toward retirement on the heels of what will now be remembered as the designer’s final show.
This season, the usual spring palette dominated colorway moodboards, dotting runways with pale sages, chartreuses, pistachios and neutral tans. In the mix also were poppier elements — Hed Mayner’s orange gore tex tracksuit and Louis Vuitton’s football jerseys offered up a sporty touch for customers, while Doublet’s K-Pop themes alongside Walter Van Beirendonck’s usual quirk and tire-spoke shoes added a welcomed element of playfulness among the grime, glitz, and minimalism.
Leather jackets were totally rampant, with Louis Vuitton and Martine Rose favoring motocross-inspired zipper flies, while the trend of female models and looks walking the menswear catwalks continued throughout this season (a result of cruis and resort seasons being added to the womenswear commerce cycle, and coinciding with the menswear calendar, a practice slowly becoming adapted as an industry standard that is also androgenizing the horizon as a delightful side-effect). As for other trends spotted just before the likes of Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner touched down for couture week — Long shorts, exposed boxers, and wide pant legs: pants layered under wide shorts at Feng Chen Wen, Sean Suen, Kolor, Paradis, and LU’U Dan; stacked belts and pant-tops at Paradis, ACNE Studios, and AWGE; pant legs bisected but still attached at Namesake and Études; mercilessly patched at Junya Watanabe and KIDILL; and strapped, with belts lining the wide bottom edge of J. W. Anderson and KIDILL shorts.
Ahead, here’s a further rundown of the shows during men’s Milan and Paris Fashion week.
DAVID KOMA
Delicate print, sheer plaid, leather, knits, and leather again— london based DAVID KOMA extends his universe for the dynamic and graceful with his first menswear offering. Intended for his personal peerage and inspired by contemporary ballet (Jiří Kylián’s Sarabande), Koma meditates on vulnerability, physicality, and clean basics. Familiar feathers and oversized crystal cabochons (women’s Autumn/Winter 2024) slash, and dot down singular shoulders, across left knees, cover hand-held bags, and hug the backs of wonderful black leather square-toe, half-calf boots.
VOWELS
Vowels are vital building blocks of language, closing seams between hard edges to clarify and inform creative director Yuki Yagi, and this motif is reflected in his design approach this season: “making products that can go well with any outfit you own.” In the historic Musée des Arts et Métiers, Shunkashuutou (changing of seasons) begins with a high energy instrumentals. Models wear streetwear classics with ease as their colors, floral-patterns, and comforting patchwork echo and converse with the surrounding tree, rock, and flower set pieces.
KIDILL
Pushing back against the “death of subculture,” Kidill’s unwavering continuous dedication to the punk spirit shines through as Hiroaki Sueyasu collaborates with American punk duo Ho99o9 for the 999 collection. Vintage patches lay the groundwork and audacious zips, spikes, pins, and locks rain embellishments on tattooed figures, swaggering in eerie pastels, mismatched knits, and traditional plaids; shrouded in crowns of threatening roses, venus flytraps, and black tendril locks, they stomp to soundcheck wailing, summoning a metallic rebellion both nostalgic and new.
ISABEL MARANT
With a “sexier attitude,” Isabel Marant’s cool grunge campaign poses against a softly dark nightclub background. Gentle ikat geometrics and western embroidery decorate shearling jackets with round stand-up collars, mohair knits and silky sweatshirts, jeans and long sleeve folk shirts; low-slung tank tops with tiny stripes, flannels, and black leather trousers round out an image of a traveled, quiet rockstar. Buckled belts, thin bead necklaces, big sunglasses and bare chests are the accessories of choice.
KIDSUPER
Kidsuper’s Colm Dillane collaborated with Cirque du Soleil for a fantastical production in It’s All Up In the Air— a runway followed by a full production show. Models are marionettes down the runway with bright white strings stretching from their wrists up to the ceiling, strutting impossibly vibrant graphics trompe-l’œil printed, applique-painted, and embroidered championing the “circus arts” theme. The Elizabethan clown collars, berets, and occasional pair of gloves complete the styling.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
For his 129th and final show as Creative Director, Dries Van Noten inspires a celebration. With a heavily star-studded attendance, the 69-look show was a summation of the brand’s most-beloved aspects as a breath of fresh air. Dreamy gauze and metallic lamé accompany opening neutral tones, bleeding into purple velvets and maroon leathers, finally blooming into candy-wrapper-pastel organza and reflective PVC across a glistening silver river. Japanese suminagashi– water-surface ink printing– features across the collection in leaves and flowers. Contemporary Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt was the listed muse.
RICK OWENS
Rick Owens galvanized a 200-strong “army of love” for his Hollywood show at the Palais de Tokyo, inviting students and fanatics to join models for ten total looks. A phalanx of five-by-four human grids uniformly wear each bone-white ensemble as they march down the equally pallid steps, backdropped by smoke for full cinematic effect. These organic Owenisms— mountainous shoulders, deflated boots, leather articulation— seem to only grow in strength and evolve in power with each repetition.
LOUIS VUITTON
Pharrell William’s second ever LOUIS VUITTON mens showing was decidedly more refined than his first, with a streamlined neutral-leaning color palette and subtler utilization of house codes, as well as pared-down continuations of the pixelation riff on the traditional LV checkerboard. An especially varied array of bags was offered in several leathers, as well as the expected jackets and trunks. Diplomacy, travel, motocross, and football were the standout influences. Sunglasses and earrings were also part of the uniform.
AWGE
Through AWGE collective, A$AP Rocky makes his paris debut with American Sabotage, his very personal take on a politicized state of affairs. To start off, two impeccably tailored suits— establishing a baseline “perfection” on which an excess of protesting energy can rage permutations. Slogan tees, police uniforms, and multi-layered exposed boxers are collaged atop and against one another to weave a Jackson Pollock-esque tapestry of economic, racial, and political disparity in the contemporary American diaspora.
SEAN SUEN
Sean Suen looks to Peking Opera legend Mei LanFang for reference this season. Chinese cloud collars, sash belts, paper thin caps edged with white spheres, and select tassels adorn the silhouettes, elegant lines drawing soothing flat expanses of silk. Historical Chinese staples like the buttoned jacket, mandarin tunics, and the Zhongshan suit are deftly translated to accompany western formalwear vests and coats in a style allegedly favored by Mr. Mei— a labor of love for icon and for culture, Suen pays tribute to a carrying on of brilliant traditions.
ZIGGY CHEN
Ziggy Chen’s runway was awash with his signature old-shanghai silhouettes and vintage film vignettes. Interspersed throughout are several striped patterns as well as a tree branch motif. Skirts and tunics are long, as well as the trousers which are fluid and flowing, tops have matching undershirt linings, and extended cuffs peek out under mellow silken blazers. The distinct double-breasted collars make for unique interplay when layered, which Chen utilizes generously and with success.
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