Photo credit: Mat Abad, Beyond The Pines
Held in the Cirque D’Hiver in Paris France, The Casablanca Fall/Winter 2024 runway was set against the backdrop of dancers moving in perfect unison to a rhythmic soundtrack — spectacle of music, performance art and fashion. The Cirque D’Hiver is known in Paris as a prominent and historical venue for circuses and musical performances, making it a picturesque landscape for the runway show. Casablanca’s aesthetic typically follows an apres-sport aesthetic which finds the harmony between luxury and leisurewear, seeking to create timeless pieces which inspired by European design and North African landscapes which create refined, youthful and relaxed pieces.
The collection, titled ‘Venus As A Boy’ references Bjork’s song of the same name, heavily drawing from Grecian mythology, Venus (or Aphrodite in Rome) is known as the goddess of love, a theme which presented itself in recurring geometric patterns, and romantic silhouettes throughout the show. By drawing from these references which are connected yet separated by time, the collection seeked to reimagine the entwined symbolism that reoccurs in pop culture, media and design. As an invitation to the show, industry insiders received a small bowl decorated with ancient Grecian patterns and wave ornaments in a modern Casablanca color palette of red, yellow, green and blue. Pottery being one of the most ancient forms of art, the invite thoughtfully referenced the ancient aesthetics presently inspiring the brand. In the end, all the moving parts came together to highlight parallels between the ancient worlds of Greece and Rome with more modern aesthetics, traversing these ideologies with the apres-sport wear the Parisian house is most known for.
Alex Consani opened the show in an all-white turtleneck gown complete with elongated sleeves and a belted detail, styled with gold jewelry, setting the tone for a theme of metallics which continued throughout the collection. What followed was a collection full of exquisitely tailored draping that included belted and corseted detailing, sheer paneling, cutouts and embroidered details (which could be seen on both sportswear and tailored garments), often mixing casual sportswear with more formal pieces. There was an added emphasis on winter sports and performance garments such as tight hoods, tracksuits, tennis dresses, catsuits, varsity jackets, quarter zip sweaters, puffer coats and furs of varying lengths — many of such pieces using detailed patchwork and embossed patterns that in turn added a certain dimension and interest to monochromatic essentials.
Roman and Greek references presented themselves again in strappy sandals created in collaboration with the brand Ancient Greek Sandals, which were layered under knee high transparent stockings for a modern twist. Historical motifs such as columns and geometric patterns of ancient descent were often featured on garments as borders or graphic prints. Pottery was accessorized in the collection as well, one model clutching a large vase decorated similarly to the show’s invitation as they took on the runway.
The unisex collection explored various color trends, notably a reoccuring blue gradient which appeared in bags, coats and other garments. Additionally, quintessential Casablanca palettes included multi color combinations of red, yellow, blue and green which also appeared on the pottery used in the show. Elsewhere, metallics were explored through silver bags and metallic finished denims, which later evolved into sparkling sequined details on sheer transparent textiles.
The Fall/Winter offerings were styled dynamically, pairing sparking garments with apres-ski garments and laying sporty pieces like embroidered biker shorts under tailored shorts. Some highlights from the collection included a sequined ‘naked dress’ in the same silhouette to the opening look, mini knit brief shorts paired with a cropped fur coat, a long coat with a draped shawl detail and a dress with a mirrored underbust panel which resembled scales of armor.
Drawing from architecture and art, the collection repurposed motifs such as mosaics, patterns and symbols and brought them into a contemporary lens, creating a distinct connection between present and past. All in all, and through sophisticated design techniques of tailoring and draping, designs and silhouettes, Casablanca recontextualized ancient themes to fit the needs of current consumers in new textiles such as jersey and stretch fabrics for performance and leisure, conceptualizing a narrative story of craftsmanship, evolution and sophistication of the past.
Ahead, Beyond The Pines went backstage for an inside look at the show.
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