COPERNI
PHOTO: Coperni
Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant unveiled Coperni’s latest at the IRCAM, a French institute dedicated to the research of music and sound. Methods in new technology emerged on the runway; models wore AI pins on their fitted blazers, low-cut, tailored shirts, and lace flower details were 3D printed using a method the designers said utilizes sound vibrations.
COURREGES
PHOTO: Courreges
This season, Nicolas Di Felice broke new ground at Courreges – both figuratively, and literally. The brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 show brought to life a modern interpretation of ‘60s and ‘90s shapes by way of 3D printed bras, deconstructed button-up shirts and geometric cutouts.
SCHIAPARELLI
PHOTO: Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli’s latest collection demonstrates Daniel Roseberry’s ability to weave the brand’s surrealist codes into approachable ready-to-wear pieces. Chunky gold accessories decorated models, including life-sized lobster pendants referencing the Salidor Dali lobster dress designed by Elsa Schiaparelli. Casual high-top sneakers and wide-leg trousers dressed down looks that were otherwise made statements by exaggerated shoulders and other couture elements.
MARNI
PHOTO: Marni
Marni’s co-ed show took place against the backdrop of a youthfully decorated Ville Lumière where designer Francesco Risso presented a colorful explosion of shape and color. Striped blazers, ribbed basics and patterned tunics were paired with maxi skirts and oversized. patterned trousers. Patterns were mixed and matched throughout the collection, with the exception of a selection of monochromatic looks that balance out the rest.
ACNE STUDIOS
PHOTO: Acne Studios
Movement was the subject of this season’s Acne Studio collection, with irregular hemlines flowing, and tulle details exploding from otherwise simple garments. Jonny Johansson continued his study in deconstruction, this time manipulating leather and denim. Bright jewel tones were mixed into the earthy palette of browns and greens, and large clutch bags were favored over small purses.
Rick Owens
PHOTO: Rick Owens
In a haze of pink smoke, an uncharacteristically romantic collection from Rick Owens made its way down the concrete staircase which has now become a staple in the brand’s Paris shows. There were models in hazmat suits and mermaid gowns with sculpted shoulders, resembling dystopian beauty queens. Capes and trains billowed in the wind, flowing behind models as they walked to Diana Ross’ “I still believe in love.”
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivinne Westwood
PHOTO: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
This season, Andreas Kronthaler presented a collection that synthesized the personal wardrobe and style of the late Vivienne Westwood in his eyes. Like Westwood herself, the collection was vibrant, timeless and bold, resembling real uniforms worn by the late designer. It embraced tailoring, corsetry and plenty of patterns in a contemporary way that paid homage to history.
LOEWE
PHOTO: Loewe
Jonathan Anderson explored daytime wear at this season’s Loewe runway show, normal clothes — just better. Low-rise pants were regarded a thing of the past for the house as ultra-high trousers stretched above models’ ribcages. Collared shirts were buttoned to the top, layered under sweaters. Patterns and colors were quite muted, sticking mostly to neutral tones and classic patterns such as plaid.
BALENCIAGA
PHOTO: Balenciaga
This season, Demna presented a very personal collection for Balenciaga. The designer’s mother opened the show, followed (in the lookbook) high profile figures and friends such as Kim Kardashian and Amanda Lepore. The collection was a development of Demna’s sartorial aesthetic, offering a matured vision of the designer’s favorites such as oversized silhouettes, exaggerated shapes and ironic accessories. Demna’s Husband, BFRND, closed the show wearing a wedding gown made from seven vintage bridal dresses from the brand’s archive.
Y/PROJECT
PHOTO: Y/Project
In typical Y/Project fashion, deconstructed denim was a primary point of focus for the brand’s latest collection, but with a twist — literally. Garments appeared to be twisted and arbitrarily bunched, a method Glenn Martins applied to denim trousers, blouses, gowns, and skirts, appearing like three-dimensional art. Chrome, iridescent finishes of cool-toned colors highlighted the abstract silhouettes movement of the pieces.
LOUIS VUITTON
PHOTO: Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a whimsical one, full of layered skirts, bomber jackets, patterned trousers and structured jackets. Plaid patterned layers and candy coloured stripes were the stars of the show. Pants rode high on the waist, held up by suspenders over structured blouses. The show took place on a bright tangerine runway, perfectly complimenting the collection’s light palette.
Ann Demeulemeester
PHOTO: Ann Demeulemeester
Stefano Gallici took this season to not only reset the Ann Demeulemeester brand following a recent change in creative directors, but also to make it his own. The collection explored multi-pocket pants, layered skirts and long fringe. Many looks utilized excessively long straps, which acted as a sort of fringe that moved behind models on the runway.
Maison Margiela
PHOTO: Maison Margiela
Detached collars were the chicest new accessory at the Maison Margiela runway show, which opened with an array of tailored, black suits, deconstructed collared shirts and trench coats. As the show progressed, the looks became more intricately layered, mixing patterns, texture and exaggerated shapes. A collection that melted the old with the new, there were ‘50s hats and vintage silhouettes interweaved with modern Galliano.
Mugler
PHOTO: Mugler
The Mugler show was a study in movement, models and celebrities such as Angela Bassett and Paris Hilton walked the runway in what can only be described as Beyoncé mode. Fans blew loose hemlines and chiffon scarfs like jellyfish. With the presence of many clear resin chest and waist pieces, mesh overlay and flowy silhouettes, there was a palpable aquatic narrative to the show, and plenty of nods to Thierry Mugler’s archives.
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